![]() ![]() ![]() _- Fixed that and it now works properly. as for the clutch? Turns out it was plugged into the wrong port. I have no idea how I would have fixed that if the pedal calibration was disabled, which it apparently is on stock CSL pedals (as they should auto-calibrate but apparently something broke there). However, since I have the load cell brake installed, the option to manually calibrate the pedals is enabled, which also lets you manually calibrate the throttle and doing that got me back to proper throttle output (and the calibration settings from the PC utility do carry over when plugged into a PS5, thankfully). The travel on the pedal still registers properly, it's just linerally going from 0 to 50% and not 100%. Unplug and plug everything back in and the clutch is still dead but the throttle is functional. Since I couldn't calibrate anything on the PS5 I dragged the setup to my PC for more testing and now the throttle doesn't register and I also notice the clutch doesn't work at all. ![]() Turned on GT7 yesterday and noticed that I wasn't getting full throttle power - noticed it visually on the throttle/brake HUD elements and confirmed it when it was impossible to actually do the first license test since I wasn't getting anywhere near full acceleration. Ran into a weird issue with my DD Pro bundle. I'm fine with paddle shifting for life with this setup. That being said, if I get this setup working again with a new set of pedals, I'm never going to try to expand this setup with clutch/shifter for fear it'll break everything again. With the lever completely pulled click on Max. Afterwards, while the lever is depressed click on Min on the handbrake section. After you click on that, pull the Handbrake once. At the bottom of the pedals tab there is an option that reads Enable CSL Elite Pedals LC manual mode. It sure seems like Fanatec's pre-DD Pro stuff was quality but the DD Pro being mass produced for GT7 may have brought down quality control and their support sucks. If so, pull it once and then set min/max force. Then press both the menu and A (Xbox One Wheel) or X (PS4 Wheel) button. Next, turn the wheel to its center position. There's also a post on their forums that said the DD Pro wheel started smoking and broke entirely after 3 hours and that they're still waiting for support to get back to them. To calibrate the Fanatec wheel center after a firmware update, do the following Enter the tuning menu by pressing the button with a wrench on it. I never even got a chance to try the wheel with any other racer I have. If I gotta spend another $100 it is what it is. Already invested like $1,200 or so into the wheel/boost kit/wheel stand and it's a paperweight and I'm not playing GT7. I hate to say it but if I get nowhere with their support, might end up doing the same. They said they were from a non-supported shipping zone though. One person that got further along with support said the RMA shipping costs to fix it were so much they ended up just buying another set of pedals ($79.95 + shipping) and that fixed it. There's like 3 on-going threads about the issue on their forums. This sucks, still haven't heard back from Fanatec and now their forums are growing posts by the day of people whose DD Pro pedals failed and are getting nowhere with support. ![]()
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